Category N, often referred to as ‘Cat N’, is a term used by car insurance providers to describe the severity of damage to a car that has had to be written off. Generally speaking, a Cat N car will have sustained significant damage - usually in an accident - but not to its chassis or structural frame.
Last updated: 23rd October, 2025

Anthony Sharkey is COO at New Reg Limited (Car.co.uk, Trader.co.uk, Garage.co.uk), driving innovation in vehicle recycling, logistics, and customer experience.

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If a car’s been written off but hasn’t taken structural damage, it might be classed as Category N, or Cat N for short. This insurance term refers to vehicles that have been damaged (usually in an accident) but are still structurally sound and, in many cases, repairable.
Back in 2017, the old write-off system changed. Categories C and D became N and S, respectively. Now, Category S means "structural damage". Category N means everything else — things like cosmetic issues, faulty electrics, or broken brakes.
All four write-off categories (A, B, S, and N) mean the insurer chose not to repair the vehicle. That doesn’t always mean it’s unsafe, just that it wasn’t worth fixing at the time.
If you're curious whether buying a Cat N car is worth it, how insurance works, or what to look for in a repair, we’ll cover it all below.
A Category N car, often called “Cat N,” is a vehicle that’s been written off by an insurance company after an accident or incident but hasn’t suffered any structural damage. The “N” stands for “non-structural,” meaning the essential parts of the car’s structure — like the chassis or crumple zones — are still intact.
When a car is written off in the UK, insurers classify it into one of four categories: A, B, S, or N. These labels reflect the level of damage and whether the car can ever return to the road.
Here’s a quick breakdown:
| Category | Structural damage | Can be repaired? | Can be driven again? | Salvageable parts? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cat A | Yes | No | No | No |
| Cat B | Yes | No | No | Yes |
| Cat S | Yes | Yes | Yes (after repairs) | Yes |
| Cat N | No | Yes | Yes (after repairs) | Yes |
Since Cat A and Cat B are not repairable under any circumstances, let’s focus on the differences between Cat S and Cat N.
To help you grasp the concept, here are two hypotheticals:
The key difference? Cat S cars have structural issues. Cat N cars don’t.
Now... That doesn’t always mean they’re the safer or easier option. A Cat N vehicle with electrical faults can be more complex (and costly) to sort out than a structurally damaged Cat S car. Always dig into the details.
Not all write-offs are dramatic crashes. Many Category N cars end up on the list for reasons that sound minor (at least on the surface).
Here are some of the most common causes:
Water doesn’t have to reach the engine to cause major issues. If a car’s electronics, sensors, or infotainment system are compromised in a flood, insurers may write it off. Even if the structure is untouched, diagnosing and repairing water-damaged electronics can be expensive and unpredictable.
A smashed bumper, scratched panels, or deep paint damage might not sound serious. And structurally, it often isn’t. But if the cost of repairs adds up to more than the car’s market value, it can be classed as Cat N. This is especially common with older vehicles or those with lower resale value.
Airbags are costly to replace. And if they go off during a collision, that alone can tip the car over into write-off territory. If there’s no structural damage and only the airbags and interior need replacing, it’s typically marked as Cat N.
Cars that are stolen and later recovered often show up with minor damage: missing wheels, stripped interiors, or cosmetic scrapes. If the repairs are costly but non-structural, the insurer may write it off as Cat N.
Modern cars are packed with sensors and software. If the ECU (engine control unit) or other electronic systems fail and repairs are too complex or pricey, the car can be written off even without a scratch to the frame.
Yes, but only if you do your homework.
A Cat N car can be perfectly safe to drive once it’s been properly repaired. Since the damage wasn’t structural, the car’s frame and crash zones are still intact. That’s a good start, but safety depends on the quality of the repairs, not just the classification.
These are things you should consider when buying a used car no matter what, but they especially apply to Cat N write-offs.
There are plenty of reasons to consider a Cat N write-off over a new or standard used car. If you're in the market for one, though, you should know what you're potentially getting yourself into.
Before you commit to any used car, checking its history is a crucial first step.
Here’s how to find out if a vehicle is Category N:
On average, a Cat N car is worth 20% to 40% less than the same make and model with a clean history. Luxury and premium vehicles often lose even more, not because they’re riskier, but because their repair costs are higher, and buyers expect perfection.
The exact drop depends on:
For example:
A clean 2018 VW Golf might sell for £11,000
The Cat N Golf, post-repair, would fetch just £7,500–£8,500
If the repairs were professionally documented, sellers will normally price the car closer to the high end of Cat N value. If there’s no paperwork, expect a bigger discount.
The reason sellers usually list Cat N cars at a noticeable discount is to attract interest. Most advertise the status openly, but you’ll still want to cross-reference the vehicle history report to verify it.
Tip: Always compare prices using the same (or close to the same) make, model, year, mileage, and trim level. That gives you the clearest picture of the Cat N effect.
One of the reasons Cat N cars are so common on the road is that any competent individual, body shop, or garage can legally repair them. Unlike Cat S vehicles, there's also no legal requirement for them to be re-inspected before being sold.
Not anymore. The old VIC scheme was scrapped in 2015. For Cat N cars, there’s no need for an official inspection before getting back on the road. As long as the car is roadworthy and passes its MOT, you’re good to go.
However, this also means the burden of quality control is on the buyer. You’re relying on whoever repaired the car to have done it right (which is why documentation matters so much).
The flexibility of repair options makes Cat N cars cheaper to return to the road, but it also opens the door to poor-quality fixes.
Some repairs use OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts, while others rely on used or aftermarket components to keep costs down. Used parts aren’t always a problem — e.g., for panels, lights, or interiors. For safety systems (like airbags or brakes), though, original parts are strongly recommended.
Good sellers will keep:
This info is also important for you to keep, for when you insure (and possibly resell) it.
Yes. The Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations of 2008 addresses unfair trading practices.
While the verbiage is broad and open to interpretation, the core idea is simple: anything that would cause the average person to buy a used car when they otherwise wouldn't have is considered "unfair".
If you're dishonest about what was repaired or how the work was carried out, you're essentially tricking the buyer into purchasing the car.
Selling a Cat N car comes with a few extra steps and a bit more scrutiny. But if you’re transparent and prepared, you can definitely get a fair deal.
By law, you must disclose that the car is a Category N write-off when selling it. Whether you’re selling privately or to a dealer, withholding that information is considered misrepresentation, which can lead to legal action if the buyer finds out later.
Even if you’ve repaired the car to a high standard, the Cat N label sticks with it for life. You can’t “clean” the title, so honesty is non-negotiable.
Be upfront, but informative. A good listing should include:
If the work was professionally done, say so. It helps position the car as well-cared for rather than suspiciously cheap.
Cat N status makes buyers cautious, so your job is to reassure through transparency.
The more detail you provide, the more credible you’ll seem.
Private sales often net you a higher price, but they come with all the legwork. You’ll need to deal with tyre-kickers, answer lots of questions to multiple people, and prove the car’s history.
Dealers, especially those who specialise in salvage or budget vehicles, offer a quicker, easier sale, but at a lower price.
They know the resale challenges and will factor that into their offer.
Yes, but again, expect a lower trade-in value than you'd get with a clean-title car.
Most main dealers won’t accept Cat N cars at all, but used car dealers may. Just be upfront about the vehicle’s status and provide documentation to support its condition.
If it’s well-repaired and has a current MOT, they might still consider it as part-exchange, especially if you're looking to buy a lower-value car.
No. Once a car is given Cat N status, it stays that way permanently. This status is logged with the DVLA and visible on any vehicle history check. That means future buyers, insurers, and dealers will always know the car was previously written off.
Even if the vehicle is fully repaired and passes every MOT with flying colours, the Category N designation is still recorded in its history. You can’t appeal it, reverse it, or “upgrade” it later. It’s not like a scratch that gets buffed out.
If it's your car that has been written off as Category N and you feel it shouldn’t have been, you do have some options:
Even though other jurisdictions might not recognise UK insurance categories, you can't "clean" the title by selling it abroad, either.
To legally sell your car:
Also remember that, while the Cat N classification is a UK-specific designation, transparency about the vehicle's history is crucial.
Mainstream lenders and banks are cautious about write-offs. Some won’t finance Cat N cars at all, while others will only do so under stricter terms. That’s because a Cat N vehicle carries a higher perceived risk: its resale value is lower, its repair history may be unclear, and in the event of another claim, the payout could be reduced.
Even if financing is available, you might face:
Leasing is even less likely. Most leasing companies require the vehicle to have a clean history, since they expect to resell or re-lease it after the contract ends.
Your best shot is with specialist lenders who deal with used or salvage vehicles. They understand the market better, but expect more paperwork and a closer look at the car’s repair documentation.
When it comes to Cat N cars, the difference between a bargain and a money pit often comes down to quality.
Here are a few simple things to check before you buy:
If anything feels “just not right,” get an independent mechanic to inspect the vehicle. A £100 pre-purchase check could save you thousands.
EVs are packed with complex electronics, sensors, and safety tech like ADAS (Advanced Driver Assistance Systems). Even a minor bump can affect systems like lane-keeping, adaptive cruise control, or emergency braking.
If these components are damaged (particularly the radar units or cameras), they can be extremely costly to diagnose and repair, even if the structure of the car is untouched.
The battery is another major factor. A damaged or water-exposed battery doesn’t need to catch fire to be written off.
The sheer cost of replacement (often upwards of £10,000) can push an insurer to classify the car as Cat N.
This is one reason why more EVs are ending up with Cat N status. Small collisions or electrical faults can easily result in write-offs, not because the damage is catastrophic, but because repair costs outweigh the car’s value.
So, is buying a Cat N electric vehicle worth it?
Maybe, but only if you know exactly what you’re dealing with. Get a full diagnostic check, confirm the battery is healthy, and ensure all ADAS features function properly. Without that, you could be buying a high-tech headache.

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