Catalytic converter failure leaves you stuck with expensive repairs and a car that’ll fail its next MOT. Know the warning signs, common causes and prevention strategies and you’ll catch the problem early enough to avoid that. This guide shows you all of that, plus what to expect when repairs become necessary.
Last updated: 5th December, 2025

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The catalytic converter sits in your exhaust system, quietly cleaning up harmful carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, and hydrocarbon gases before they leave the tailpipe.
Since it’s critical to your car’s exhaust flow, vehicle performance suffers dramatically when it starts to fail. Fuel economy drops. You’ll fail your MOT. And from an environmental standpoint, you're essentially driving around with your emissions controls switched off.
The good news is, catalytic converter failure doesn't happen overnight. And the warning signs are usually pretty obvious (like a rotten-egg smell from the exhaust). Knowing the likely causes and repair costs puts you back in control.
In this guide, you’ll learn the most common reasons catalytic converters fail, the early signs to watch for, and what you can realistically expect to pay to fix the issue.
Catalytic converters matter because they’re the part that keeps your car’s emissions in check. Strip it away and you're looking at emission levels roughly 90% higher than what comes out of a properly functioning exhaust system.
The environmental impact is straightforward: catalytic converters neutralise the nastiest components of your exhaust by converting them into less harmful chemicals using platinum, palladium and rhodium as catalysts.
From a legal standpoint, there's zero wiggle room here. Every petrol car sold in the UK since 1993 (and diesel vehicles since 2001) must have a functioning catalytic converter to meet emissions standards. When your MOT tester checks your exhaust emissions, they're verifying that your cat is doing its job.
Beyond the MOT, driving without a working catalytic converter will land you with a £1,000 fine. The courts don't take kindly to vehicles that are essentially mobile pollution factories, and ignorance isn't much of a defence when the symptoms are usually glaringly obvious.
Overheating, contamination from oil or coolant and physical damage top the list of reasons for catalytic converter failure. Engine misfires, incorrect fuel mixtures and leaking fluids accelerate the decline. And if you’re someone who skips regular services, you're practically giving these problems permission to fester as quickly as possible.
If your catalytic converter’s on its way out, your car will tell you the problem through a combination of performance issues (like weak acceleration) and warning signals (like the engine management light on your dash).
At a certain point, these will be impossible to ignore. And that’s a good thing because recognising the symptoms early gives you a fighting chance to address the root cause before the converter is irreparably damaged.
The difference between catching it early and waiting too long can be hundreds – sometimes thousands – of pounds. More importantly, a failing converter compromises your vehicle's safety and roadworthiness, so you’ll fail your MOT when it’s due for a retest.
If you have the following issues, the catalytic converter is the failing component:
When your catalytic converter fails, you're basically looking at two options: repair or replacement. Minor issues like faulty sensors and exhaust leaks are sometimes fixable without touching the converter itself. But once the internal substrate is damaged, replacement is the only viable route.
DIY fixes are tempting for the mechanically inclined, but catalytic converters are part of a complicated emissions system where mistakes are costly, and potentially illegal if you're not careful.
In the UK, expect to pay £400 to £1,500 for a standard catalytic converter replacement, though luxury and high-performance vehicles push costs upwards of £1,500. The part itself is expensive because of the precious metals inside, and labour is the other half of the bill.
The reason average costs cover such a broad range is that there’s huge variance in the value of a catalytic converter. And it isn’t tied purely to how premium the car is. The mix of platinum, palladium and rhodium inside is what matters, and that’s shaped by engineering requirements rather than badge prestige.
Some converters, like those on petrol hatchbacks like the Ford Fiesta or Vauxhall Corsa, use relatively modest amounts of PGMs. Others, like those on hybrids like the Toyota Prius and big petrol trucks like the Ram 2500 and Ford F-250, carry higher PGM concentrations to cope with hotter exhaust gases, stricter emissions demands and the way the engine cycles on and off.
To replace your catalytic converter, it will cost between £400 and £1,500 for most UK vehicles. But if you drive a luxury, hybrid or special-performance model, it’ll more than likely land somewhere from £1,500 to £2,500+.
Here’s a detailed breakdown of costs you can expect based on the car you drive:
| Vehicle category | Typical part cost | Labour cost (1 to 3 hrs) | Estimated total cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small petrol city cars (Fiesta, Corsa, Polo) | £150 to £400 | £50 to £420 | £200 to £820 |
| Diesels (cat + DPF systems) | £400 to £1,200 | £50 to £420 | £450 to £1,620 |
| Family saloons and hatchbacks (Focus, Astra, Golf) | £250 to £600 | £50 to £420 | £300 to £1,020 |
| Performance and luxury cars (BMW, Audi, Mercedes, Jaguar) | £700 to £2,000+ | £50 to £420 | £750 to £2,420+ |
| Hybrids (Prius, Lexus CT/RX) | £600 to £1,800+ | £50 to £420 | £650 to £2,220+ |
| SUVs and large engines (Land Rover, XC90, V6/V8 models) | £600 to £2,000+ | £50 to £420 | £650 to £2,420+ |
| Light commercial vans (Transit, Vivaro, Berlingo) | £300 to £800 | £50 to £420 | £350 to £1,220 |
The bulk of the bill comes from two things: the precious metals inside the converter and the labour involved in swapping it out. Some cars have a simple bolt-off, bolt-on design. Others hide the converter in a cramped section of the exhaust or integrate it into a larger manifold, which pushes the labour time – and directly associated cost – upward.
Labour rates in your area also play a big role. Garages in major metro areas like London charge £100 to £140 per hour for labour whilst mechanics in smaller towns charge £50 to £80. Even though it’s only a 1-3-hour job, that makes a difference of several hundred pounds (the table range reflects this).
A catalytic converter “repair” typically costs £30 to £100 because that’s the price of a cleaner additive. And that’s about as far as repairs realistically go. Proper internal fixes simply aren’t possible, which is why garages almost always recommend replacement instead.
Cleaner additives can help in very specific cases. If the converter is slightly clogged with carbon, you might see an improvement in performance or emissions for a few weeks to a couple of months. After that, the symptoms usually return because the underlying problem never went away.
But if the converter is contaminated by burned oil residue (common on engines with worn piston rings or valve seals) cleaning won’t work at all. Oil ash bonds to the ceramic substrate, and once that happens, the chemical reactions inside the converter can’t recover.
Fixing a catalytic converter, either through a temporary clean or a full replacement, only makes sense when the cost lines up with the value of your car. A £700 to £1,500 repair on a car worth £1,200 isn’t smart.
Same goes for older high-mileage cars where a failing cat is usually just one symptom of a much bigger picture: worn piston rings, oil burning, misfires, failing sensors, and tired exhaust components.
So the real question isn’t “should I fix the catalytic converter?” It’s “does fixing it buy me a meaningful life out of the car, or am I throwing good money after bad?”
For some drivers, replacing the cat is the right call. For others, scrapping the car is genuinely the wiser move.
A catalytic converter is only worth “fixing” (in the sense of trying a cleaner or small intervention) if the problem is mild and the car still has decent life left in it.
Repair-type fixes make sense when:
In these instances, a catalytic converter cleaner might give you a few weeks to a couple of months of improved performance and emissions (though there’s no way to guarantee this).
Replacement becomes the only sane choice when the converter is genuinely damaged. If the internal honeycomb is melted, broken or clogged with oil ash, nothing will restore it. Cleaner additives won’t touch it and repeated attempts just burn your hard-earned money.
Replacement is the better route when:
A new catalytic converter isn’t cheap, but it restores the car’s performance, emissions and fuel economy. For a still-valuable car, replacement is usually the financially smart move.
And if the cost of replacing the catalytic converter is more than 50% of its current market value, it’s a better idea to scrap your car.
While catalytic converters are built to last between 70,000 and 100,000 miles, their lifespan depends heavily on how well you maintain the rest of your vehicle. Most converter failures stem from neglected maintenance elsewhere. Fix those issues, and you'll likely never need to worry about your converter at all.
Here are the practical steps that make the biggest difference:
Most catalytic converters last between 70,000 and 100,000 miles, though many survive the entire lifetime of the vehicle with proper care.
The actual lifespan depends heavily on your driving habits and maintenance routine. Short journeys where the converter never reaches optimal operating temperature lead to carbon buildup and premature wear. Aggressive driving generates excessive heat and accelerates internal deterioration.
If your vehicle has more than 100,000 miles on it or is over ten years old, it's worth having the converter inspected during routine servicing. And warning signs like reduced performance, unusual smells, or rattling noises indicate it may need attention regardless of age or mileage.
It’s uncommon for a catalytic converter to fail suddenly, but it can happen from physical damage (like hitting road debris or a severe pothole) or engine misfires that flood the converter with unburnt fuel. A suddenly flashing check engine light indicates active misfires and requires immediate attention to total catalytic converter failure.
Regular maintenance, particularly fixing engine issues like misfires, faulty sensors and fuel system problems as soon as you notice the warnings, significantly reduces the risk of sudden failure.
To know whether your catalytic converter is covered under warranty, check your vehicle's warranty documentation or contact your dealership with your VIN to confirm specific coverage. If you've purchased an extended warranty, review the terms carefully because some exclude catalytic converters or only cover them under specific failure conditions.
In the UK, most manufacturers include the catalytic converter under the emissions warranty, which usually lasts 5 to 8 years or up to a set mileage limit. But you’ll want to verify this with your specific agreement.
Your car can technically run without a catalytic converter, but driving without one is illegal in the UK and you can be fined up to £1,000. Your vehicle will also fail its MOT immediately, making it unroadworthy.
Beyond the legal implications, driving without a converter means you're releasing harmful pollutants at levels roughly 90% higher than normal. The check engine light will remain illuminated, performance will suffer due to incorrect oxygen sensor readings, and you'll likely experience poor fuel economy.

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