Why is My Power Steering Not Working? (+ How to Fix It)

If your steering wheel suddenly feels heavier than usual, it’s usually one of three things: a mechanical, electrical or fluid issue.

When power steering starts to fail, you notice it in real-world moments: wrestling the wheel while parking, overshooting a turn because the car doesn’t respond quickly enough, or feeling a split-second delay when you try to steer out of a tight gap. Power steering failure makes your car dangerous to drive, which is why you can’t just shrug these issues off.

Before you panic, let’s break down the most common reasons your power steering stops working and what you can do about it.

How does power steering work?

Modern cars in the UK use one of two power steering setups: hydraulic or electric.

In hydraulic power steering (HPS), a belt-driven pump pressurises hydraulic fluid and sends it through hoses to the steering rack, where that pressure helps you steer. 

Its main components are:

• Pump: Builds the hydraulic pressure that provides the steering assist.
• Fluid reservoir: Stores the hydraulic fluid that feeds the system.
• Hoses and lines: Carry pressurised fluid between the pump and steering rack.
• Drive belt: Powers the pump from the engine.

In electric power steering (EPS), sensors measure the force you apply to the wheel, then the ECU calculates the required assistance and an electric motor provides it directly at the steering rack or column.

Unlike an HPS system, EPS only requires two working parts:

• Electric motor: Delivers the steering assist instead of fluid pressure.
• ECU / control module: Reads steering sensors and controls how much assistance to give.

And of course, both HPS and EPS systems have a rack and pinion, which is the mechanical unit that converts your steering wheel input into tyre movement.

Hydraulic vs electric power steering: key differences

When any of these parts weaken, early warning signs appear.

Warning signs your power steering is failing

Power steering rarely fails out of nowhere because its components wear down gradually rather than all at once. Those small changes in feel, noise or steering response are noticeable well in advance of the system fully giving up.

Spotting those early saves you from the expensive (and frankly terrifying) moment when the assist disappears entirely. And addressing them quickly keeps the system healthy and prevents a small leak or a loose belt from snowballing into total failure.
Most issues fall into three groups: early warning signs, progressive symptoms, and critical failure indicators.

Early warning signs

These are the subtle clues that something in the system is starting to struggle:

• Slight stiffness in the steering: Often the first sign. Low fluid, a loosening power steering belt and early wear on the power steering pump will all reduce the system’s effectiveness and make the wheel feel a touch heavier than usual.
• Occasional whining or groaning when turning: Hydraulic pumps make this noise when they’re low on fluid or starting to wear out. In EPS systems, it can point to a motor working harder than it should.
• Small fluid leaks or spots under the car: A damp patch near the front of the vehicle usually means a hose, seal, or the reservoir is leaking. Even a slow leak can quickly lead to reduced hydraulic pressure.
• Steering wheel returning slowly to centre: When the wheel doesn’t settle back naturally after a turn, it can indicate low fluid pressure, early rack issues, or increased friction in the system.

None of these are technically ‘that bad’, but it’s still better to get them looked at while the repair work will be cheap and fast.

Progressive symptoms

Progressive symptoms show up when the issue has moved beyond mild wear and the system is now struggling to keep up:

• Constant heavy steering effort: The assist is fading, which points to a failing pump, a major fluid leak, or an EPS motor that’s losing strength.
• Frequent fluid loss or loud pump whining: Ongoing leaks drop the system pressure and the pump reacts by whining or grinding as it tries and fails to maintain flow.
• Steering wheel vibration, jerks or pulsing: Uneven pressure in hydraulic systems or intermittent motor output in EPS can make the wheel feel twitchy or unstable.
• Indicator light flickering (EPS systems): A dashboard steering warning light that comes and goes usually means the ECU is detecting inconsistent sensor readings or electrical faults.

If you ignore these symptoms, the system will overheat and the pump can potentially seize, or the EPS motor can shut down entirely. Both of those equate to full power steering failure.

Critical failure indicators

These are the signs that the system is no longer safe to rely on:

• Complete steering loss or the wheel locking: If the wheel becomes extremely heavy or refuses to turn, it’s either due to power steering pump failure, a snapped belt or that the EPS motor has shut down.
• Continuous dashboard warning light: A solid steering warning light means the ECU detects a major electrical or mechanical fault that’s affecting steering assistance.
• Burning smell from the engine bay: An overheating hydraulic pump or slipping belt will produce a sharp, burnt-rubber smell, which is a clear sign of serious failure.

If you reach this stage, stop driving immediately and call for a tow. A full loss of steering assist makes the vehicle unpredictable and therefore unsafe.

What causes the power steering to fail?

Hydraulic and electric systems break down in very different ways: hydraulics suffer from leaks, low fluid or a worn pump, while electric systems fail because of sensor faults, wiring issues and ECU problems. Since they’re fundamentally different, failures come from different places.

Most breakdowns trace back to one of three roots: fluid loss, mechanical wear, or electrical malfunction.

Hydraulic system failures

Hydraulic systems rely on pressurised fluid, so most failures start with something reducing that pressure. 

The root causes of hydraulic failures are:

• Leaking hoses
• Low or contaminated fluid
• Damaged seals
• A worn pump
• A slipping drive belt that can’t spin the pump properly

Typical signs for this particular failure type are a whining or groaning sound when turning, noticeably heavier steering and power steering fluid leaking onto the ground near the front of the car.

Fixes involve replacing the fluid, repairing the leak and fitting a new pump if it’s worn out. As a simple prevention measure, check your power steering fluid level every few months – that’s one of the quickest ways to catch problems early.

Electric system failures

Electric power steering uses sensors, wiring, an electric motor and the ECU working together, so faults usually come from one of those links breaking down.

Typical causes include:

• A failing motor
• Damaged or corroded wiring
• Faulty steering-angle or torque sensors
• An ECU malfunction
• A weak battery that can’t supply steady voltage

You’ll notice the steering assist cutting in and out as the system delivers electrical power inconsistently. You will also notice the wheel suddenly feeling heavy at low speeds and a dashboard steering warning light that stays on constantly as you drive.

Diagnosis normally starts with scanning the car for fault codes, checking the voltage and resetting the system. While that sounds simple enough, most EPS problems need a professional because the components are sealed and not really DIY-friendly.

Environmental and usage factors

Not every power steering failure comes from a faulty part; sometimes your environment or driving habits put extra strain on your hydraulic or electric power steering system.

There are several factors contributing to this:

• Harsh climates
• Poor road conditions
• Inconsistent servicing
• Regularly overloading the vehicle

Extreme heat thins hydraulic fluid, cold temperatures thicken it, and dirt or moisture contamination speeds up corrosion in hoses, seals, and electrical connectors. And depending on how/where you drive, your car might experience some of these things daily. 

As a simple habit, drive gently over potholes and avoid cranking the wheel while the car is completely stationary. Both of these stop unnecessary stress from transferring to the steering system.

Now… once you’ve identified the cause, your next step is knowing how to fix it.

How to fix power steering problems

The right fix for power steering problems depends on what’s gone wrong and whether your car uses hydraulic or electric power steering. Some checks are safe for most drivers to do at home. The rest should be left to a qualified mechanic.

Simple DIY checks

At home, the following steps will help you fix small issues and diagnose bigger ones:

1. Check the power steering fluid level (hydraulic systems): Find the power steering reservoir under the bonnet (it should be labelled). Check the level against the MIN/MAX marks, with the engine in the position specified in your handbook. If it’s low, top up with the correct fluid type only. If the level keeps dropping, you’ve got a leak that needs professional attention.
2. Look for leaks and belt wear: Inspect around the reservoir, hoses and the steering rack area for wet, oily patches. Check the drive belt for cracks, fraying, or glazing (shiny, polished surfaces). Visible leaks or a damaged belt are workshop jobs, so if you see this, don’t just keep topping the fluid up.
3. Basic checks on electric systems (EPS): Make sure the battery terminals are tight and free from heavy corrosion. If you’re confident, you can gently clean light corrosion from terminals and earth points. Note any warning lights and when they appear (e.g. only at full lock, only at low speed). This information helps a mechanic diagnose the fault quickly.

Repairs at a mechanic

The following three jobs should only be done by a mechanic because they’re inherently more difficult:

1. Replace a worn pump or belt (hydraulic): A failing pump or slipping belt can cause whining noises and heavy steering. Replacing either involves specialist tools, correct belt tension, and bleeding the system, so it’s not a beginner DIY job.
2. Flush the system and refill with the correct fluid: Contaminated or burnt fluid can damage the pump and steering rack. A garage can drain the old fluid, flush the lines, and refill with the manufacturer-approved type, then bleed out any air.
3. Diagnose and repair EPS faults: Electric systems usually need fault code scanning with diagnostic equipment, checks on sensors, wiring looms and earth points. It’s also possible you’ll need an ECU or steering motor reset, reprogramming or replacement. These modules are complicated and expensive, and without a professional, you risk totally ruining the power steering system and those around it.

A brief safety note: Avoid driving until the issue is fixed if the steering feels unsafe, even a little bit. You don’t know when it’ll give out, and the symptoms will only get worse the more you drive it.

How much does power steering repair cost?

Power steering repair costs vary depending on your car, whether it uses hydraulic or electric assistance, and labour rates in your area. Hydraulic systems cost less overall to repair but need more maintenance over time compared to electric systems.

As a rough guide, expect anything from around £60 for minor fixes (like topping up fluid or replacing a basic sensor) to £1,000+ for major component replacements, such as a new pump or steering rack. 

Most power steering repairs fall somewhere in the middle. Your final bill really depends on whether you’re fixing something minor, something major and how factors like your car’s make/model affect labour and parts prices.=

Minor repairs and maintenance

Minor power steering repairs and maintenance cost between £40 and £150 at most garages here in the UK.

Here’s a rough look at what basic power steering jobs can cost at a garage in the UK:

Minor power steering repairs and maintenance costs (UK, 2026)

If you’re comfortable with basic checks like topping up fluid and inspecting for obvious leaks, the DIY cost is essentially just the fluid itself. That’s usually less than £30 for the right bottle.

A workshop visit bumps that up because you’re paying for an hour’s labour and diagnosis. Even a straightforward garage fluid change or leak fix typically stays well under £150, though keep in mind that letting a small issue sit will lead to bigger bills later.

Major component replacement

Major power steering component replacement costs range from £150 to £500 for a power steering pump replacement to £600 to £1,500+ for a full steering rack replacement. Steering rack replacement, in particular, is one of the more expensive steering jobs – it’ll usually run you into four figures once you add up all the parts and labour together.

Since the range depends so much on the type of replacement, here’s a snapshot of what bigger power steering jobs typically cost in the UK:

Major power steering component replacement costs (UK, 2026)

Prices vary so much because your car’s make/model, whether it uses an HPS vs an EPS system, whether the parts are OEM or aftermarket and labour rates where you live in the UK can all move the bill up or down by hundreds of pounds.

More on that below.

Factors affecting repair costs

The five main factors affecting power steering repair costs are:

• Labour rates: Garages don’t all charge the same. Hourly labour can vary by region, with central London and the South East usually costing more than rural or northern areas.
• Vehicle age and type: Older cars with worn parts need more work, and high-performance cars require specialist labour you’ll have to pay more for.
• Hydraulic vs electric systems: Electric power steering faults can be harder to diagnose and need specialist tools, which pushes prices up compared with basic fluid or pump issues in hydraulic setups. 
• OEM vs aftermarket parts: Genuine manufacturer parts cost more but often come with warranties and better fit; aftermarket parts are cheaper but quality varies. 
• Regional variations: Your postcode significantly affects the bill. Garages in big cities like London charge higher hourly rates than independents in smaller towns, sometimes by as much as double. 

A pro tip to prevent yourself from being ripped off is to always get estimates from multiple reputable garages before you commit. If you accept the first quote, you have no way of knowing whether it’s accurate for that type of job where you live.

Should you repair or scrap your car?

Repairing makes sense when your car has relatively low mileage, the rest of the vehicle is in good shape and the steering issue is minor, like a small leak, a belt adjustment, or a pump that isn’t too costly to replace. In these cases, a modest repair can keep the car running safely for years.

It’s better to scrap your car when it’s old, high-mileage or the repair bill is higher than 50% of the vehicle’s current market value. Since major steering work like a rack replacement or an EPS motor/ECU failure is so expensive, it’s usually in those two situations where the balance gets tipped toward scrappage.

And if you do scrap it, an authorised treatment facility will dispose of fluids and components safely, with 95% of the metal recycled. Some yards even offer small environmental bonuses or incentives.

Of course, make sure to assess the car’s total overall condition before spending on major steering repairs. If you have another major repair coming up (e.g. suspension failure), factor the cost of that repair into your decision-making as well.

How to maintain your power steering system

Regular maintenance is the easiest way to avoid expensive and catastrophic breakdowns and keep your steering feeling predictable. Simple fluid level, belt condition and driving habit checks make a bigger difference than most drivers realise.

Good maintenance comes down to three things: inspecting the system, keeping the fluid healthy and adopting smoother driving habits.

Regular inspection schedule

Manually check your power steering fluid monthly, and have the mechanic do so at every oil change (5,000 to 7,500 miles). And while you’re under the bonnet, inspect the hoses, seals and drive belt for cracks, damp patches and early wear.

Even if you think everything looks fine, book a professional inspection once a year to catch issues you might miss.

Fluid maintenance

Replace your power steering fluid every two to three years, or sooner if your manufacturer recommends it. Always use the exact fluid type specified in your vehicle’s handbook because hydraulic systems are picky and the wrong blend will damage seals or the pump.

Never mix incompatible fluids. If you’re not sure what’s already in the system and you think you’ve used the wrong kind, flush it completely before refilling.

Driving habits that extend its life

Avoid turning the wheel while the car is completely stationary because it puts unnecessary strain on the power steering pump or electric motor. Also avoid holding the steering at full lock for more than a moment, as this spikes the pressure in the power steering system.

As for how you drive, take bumps and potholes gently to reduce shock loads on the rack and hoses. And in colder climates, let the engine run for a short moment before driving so the steering fluid can warm slightly and flow properly.

Can you drive without power steering?

You can physically drive a car without power steering, but it’s incredibly risky, especially at low speeds where the wheel becomes extremely heavy to turn. Most drivers have a hard time making tight turns and reacting quickly without the power steering, and it’s common for that extra effort to lead to a loss of steering control in an emergency.

There are also insurance and legal concerns: power steering failure is considered a ‘dangerous’ defect on an MOT, and knowingly driving an unroadworthy vehicle might invalidate your cover and shift the liability onto you if you’re involved in an accident.

The short-term need to use your car is not worth the risk. If your power steering has failed, get it repaired ASAP before using it again.